Climbing at Hangdog
There are two main crag options in Golden Bay: Paines Ford and the Pōhara Sea Cliffs. Between these are over 300 bolted routes to keep you busy. Route guides for these crags are available at the Hangdog office.
Routes are mainly single pitch with fixed protection and lower-offs. A rack of 10-15 quickdraws, some ‘biners, belay devices and the other basic necessities will generally see you right. Some routes can require some extra natural protection, and there is the occasional trad route. A standard 50m dynamic rope is largely sufficient, though there are a few longer routes requiring a 60m rope.
All basic equipment (excluding ropes) can be hired from the Hangdog Office, and we are able to order equipment if you wish to purchase.
Paines Ford
Over 220 bolted routes spread over 20 individual walls. From cruisy slab runs to big roofs, from cool bush covered short-and-sweet’s to wickedly exposed sustained epics. The closest wall is 5 minutes walk from camp, the furthest is 20 minutes.
The rock is a hard limestone which will likely introduce a new climbing style to many experienced climbers who may have little familiarity with the “sloper”.
Paines caters for all grades- there is a great selection of beginner’s routes starting at 12 with some lovely family-friendly walls, through to a selection of acclaimed 28’s and 29’s for the superhero’s out there. The grade forte is the low-mid 20’s, with a multitude of quality 21-26’s.
The proximity of both the camp and the river to the cliffs is standout. You can come and go between the camp and the cliffs at ease, and the river is mere minutes from any of the walls for the post-climb splash.
It’s worth noting that due to the bushy environment, Paines can be affected by seepage, making some of the cliffs unclimbable for a day or two following rain. The Pōhara sea cliffs are better protected from rain and dry faster.
The crag is located in the Paines Ford Scenic Reserve, which is managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC). Remember that in this area nature comes first: do not damage the vegetation, do not go off track, do not litter, absolutely no fires, ever. Please use the toilets provided.
Pōhara sea cliffs
This series of picturesque sea cliffs boasts nearly 100 routes and are the venue of the annual “Bo-Peep Challenge” climbing competition. Longer routes, seaside vibes and stunning scenery, they are a destination in their own right.
The cliffs are strung between Pōhara and Ligar Bay, a 10 minute drive from Hangdog. They have a great intermediate grade range of upper 10’s to lower 20’s, with many longer routes for those wanting to build endurance.
Please note - the main road that the sea cliffs are accessed from is very narrow and extremely busy in the summer months. Drivers need to drive and park responsibly. Pedestrians and cyclists should exercise extreme caution. All users should be aware and share the road.
These cliffs provide a great alternative to Paines for a few reasons:
The scenery! Golden Bay’s world class beaches are literally a stone’s throw away- enjoy coastal panoramas from every topout, and beach swimming and frizbee after your climb.
These cliffs typically stay dry and/ or dry faster than those at Paines, so are a good option during/ following rain. The wall bases are open, sunny and well suited for lounging and social climbing.
They provide a quieter option to Paines which, depending on what wall you’re targeting, can get pretty busy.
Bring a helmet. The rock is a softer limestone than Paines, and while all routes were heavily cleaned when first set many of them have roofs above them which can drop the occasional lump.
Bring a longer rope if you can. Some of the best lines are slightly longer and a 60m+ rope comes in handy. Pick up a guidebook from the Hangdog office which will tell you which routes are longer.
Other options
There a few other less well known and less developed walls hidden around the area. Sandhill’s Creek, The Games Room, The Mussel Inn Wall and the Stardust Quarry are a few more crag names to keep an ear out for. Most of these get very limited visits and are rarely maintained. Chats with locals are required to get the lowdown on conditions and access.
Bouldering
There’s not much bouldering in the Bay, but what there is happens to be of the best variety: over water.
The three swimming holes in the Tākaka River close to Hangdog all have “great deep water bouldering” options. The closest swimming hole (“High Rocks” or “Number 1”) is exceptionally blessed, with two classic problems- The Kool Aid Grand Traverse and The Acid Test (pictured above-right), either of which make for a great summer project.
The beaches fronting the Pōhara sea cliffs also have some great problems to play around on (below-right). In the nature of over-water bouldering, you must ALWAYS check your fall zone in the water but typically the known problems are safe. Shoes are discouraged, primarily because you look like a dork.
Into other stuff besides climbing? Click here to check out all the other epic stuff Golden Bay has to offer.